On Friday I went on another trip with the MCA-Armenia and MCC folks. This time it was two different canal openings and a meeting at a village mayor’s office. In addition to the MCC head here, there was the Ambassador again and this time the Prime Minister of Armenia; with me in the car was an infrastructure specialist from MCC in Washington. This day had some contrasts with last week’s: At the first stop, one of the farmers started to complain about paying for water, and then others chimed in. The Washington person remarked that this was really democracy in action. The President didn’t mingle with the local people at all last week, but the Prime Minister did – he listened, he had answers (your fees help pay for the maintenance of the canal – water isn’t free so it can’t be free – that kind of thing); I was impressed. One of the farmers mentioned that the recent rains could mean another bad crop – I was wondering whether that was the case. But if it didn’t rain maybe they would mention lack of rain leading to a bad crop…. We also saw (a first for these events) some village women outside the mayor’s office (several of the press were women, but urban ones) – outside the fence, that is. When the Ambassador remarked about it, someone told her that in Armenia men and women gather in separate groups, and that it was nice that the women were there to see what they could. My counterpart told me that one of the things she wants me to work on is a success story about how the project is helping women. Gender and Development!
At the next stop, the news crews split up – some asked the Prime Minister questions and others surrounded the Ambassador. I was impressed with her answers! Yes, there are some things that America would like to see Armenia do, but it is up to the people of Armenia (of course she put it much more diplomatically!). After the meeting in the mayor’s office, a select group went into the next room – I followed the infrastructure person and suddenly realized maybe I shouldn’t have been in there. But since nobody said anything to me and I might have drawn more attention to myself by leaving, I stayed – it was another big buffet (showcasing local produce and including my now go-to buffet favorite, lavash with cheese and greens) with many toasts. There were two tables – the dignitaries were around one and a couple of us, including I, stayed in the back at the other one. And even though I wasn’t sure I should be there I am glad I was – I was hungry! Chowed down as if I hadn’t been fed in a while – that is, I showed quite an appreciation for the local foods. The Prime Minister shook my hand (even as he probably wondered what I was doing there). I am glad I was invited! I have spent most of the rest of the week reading all of the MCA-Armenia materials – now I am ready to get going! I’ll get going on Wednesday now – the OSCE women persuaded me to go to Goris after all.
As for the little events – this was quite a social week for me. Several of the PCVs who I have become somewhat friendly with were in town this week, and I had coffee/tea/dinners out almost every night. One of them introduced me to a gelato place and I found myself back there with the other visitors. After all, they don’t get to Yerevan much…. I may have to limit myself to getting gelato only when people come into town. Otherwise I could be there a lot! Another event was going to the dentist. I get my teeth cleaned often at home and knew it was time. The dentist discovered (or invented?) a cavity! My first in decades. And he wants to replace an old filling. Once he mentioned it I did start feeling it – so I will go back next week. He didn’t find a tooth-related cause of my tooth-area almost-daily headaches; I wonder if it is dehydration. Or stress? And it occurred to me that the cold I feel I have been fighting for weeks might be allergies. I feel on the verge of one and it never seems to become one – and then I saw the flowering trees and new leaves and thought, aha, that might be it. I don’t wish for the flowering trees to be over soon though – they are so pretty! Also eventful is that in tutoring we review a new letter or so in every session – I now know enough of the alphabet to start to read signs and make out words. Very exciting. Reading opens up a world of possibilities! My vocabulary is still very limited though, and I don’t study or practice enough. But I do enjoy the tutoring.
And I have been hitting some of the smaller museums in town and still exploring Yerevan. Recently I have been to the Modern Art Museum (a variety of styles and subjects) and the Museum of Russian Art (someone’s private collection – I like that type of museum), and today the Sergey Parajanov Museum. Parajanov was a filmmaker who earned international acclaim and also lifelong persecution by the Soviet regime, including years spent in prison. This house museum contains collages, installations and assemblages that he put together, for the films, while in prison, or just because. Very interesting – see some at www.parajanovmuseum.am.I’ve also been for a walk along the river down in the Hrazdan gorge – you go down a set of steps and it is easy to forget you are in the city – and to Surp Sargis, an interesting church nearby. And back to the Vernissage – every time I go, different things capture my interest – this weekend it was leather jewelry and ceramics. The carpets are growing on me, too. I didn’t get a runner in Morocco because I thought the imaginary studio apartment wouldn’t have a hallway, but what if it does?
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