Monday, June 20, 2011

Village life, Spa town, Walkers meet, Caravanserai - Part I

This may have been my favorite weekend in Armenia! It got off to a shaky start, though, with a two-hour ride in a completely full, hot and airless marchutny – during which, ironically, I was reading a New Yorker article about tuberculosis (nobody coughed during the ride, thankfully). Then I got into a taxi where I had trouble being understood and was lamenting my lack of Armenian study and practice – when I got to my final destination, my host told me I got the crazy taxi driver, so it wasn’t me. After that, I had a wonderful time.

I met Chad once at the cafeteria near the Peace Corps office; I told him I was interested in coming to Yeghegnadzor for the end of the Border2Border walk, and he instantly said he had four beds and I could have one, in my own room. Plus, I mentioned that I was interested in going to Jermuk, the spa town of Armenia, and he agreed to go with me. What a nice host! First, we met his landlord’s family – extremely nice people, with cute kids – and walked around his village. It’s the largest village in Armenia in area and the second largest in population. Almost everyone lives off subsistence farming in their gardens; some also have animals that they take across the river to graze. Chad’s family is quite prosperous – they grow enough food for themselves and have extra to take to market, plus three of them have outside jobs; it was nice to see a well-off family. Much of the rest of the village looked prosperous as well, with big houses and gardens; Vayots Dzor is a good region for agriculture. All is not paradise, though – the 19-year-old daughter in Chad’s original host family was bride-napped a few months ago by another family in the village. She hasn’t been allowed back to see her family, and she’s now pregnant. Another volunteer is extending his service specifically to work on bride-napping issues; it’s apparently an increasing practice here.

We took the marchutny to Vayk, the next town over, and learned that the next bus to Jermuk would be an hour and a half later – I was happy to spring for a taxi rather than wait, and we ended up with a driver who regularly transports Peace Corps volunteers. He offered to show us around, wait for us and take us back. First he took us to the ski lift, which operates year-round, and we had a view of the mountains and lake – Jermuk, at about 2600 meters, is much cooler than the village from which we had started. Then we went to a waterfall, where we took a little walk by the river. Jermuk is known for its waters – a local sparkling water is bottled here, and in the town itself there are hot mineral springs where you can drink and/or fill bottles. I had a sip from each spigot and feel cured of any possible ailments! Jermuk is also known for sanitariums – in Soviet days (and even today), people would come for long vacations and get various treatments. These are not as sophisticated as the spas we may know of and long for (ah, for The Farm in the Philippines!), but I wanted to experience a treatment. I had a 15-minute underwater massage – I was immersed in a big bathtub and then an attendant directed a stream of water from a hose along all of the major muscle groups. I wish the bath had been a little warmer, but I did feel relaxed and clean – not bad for less than ten dollars. I don’t think I’d go back for a long vacation though, or even a weekend. Our last stop was by the lake, where there are more resorts. It looks like a nice place to swim – unless you get too close to the end, that is. There, a large daisy-shaped outflow drain goes to an underwater river that empties into Lake Sevan, 53 k away. An interesting engineering project, and the end to an interesting little visit!

After Jermuk we went into Yeghegnadzor, where the Border2Border walkers from both the north and from the south had arrived. Supporting them and seeing them all at the end of their walk was my motivation for the timing, but I also wanted to visit Emily and Meag, the PCVs who live there. They were working with the women embroiderers; they have since found other projects, as have I, but they’re both nice, so I wanted to visit anyway. Plus, they are renowned throughout the country as great cooks. I found my way to the kitchen and helped stir cherry pie filling while others were making lasagnas. After all the prep work was done and the food was in the oven, we sat on the steps while a trio of B2B walkers who happen to be extremely musically talented (one went to Julliard, one won a national barbershop quartet contest, and the third, who knows) sang, harmonized and played a variety of instruments – one guitar and several improvised (shaken Pringles can, brushed broom, and banged-on pans, water bottles and other items). It was a real treat! As was dinner – even at a point where everyone (especially the walkers) was so hungry that anything would have been devoured, the food was exceptional. I enjoyed the stories and the camaraderie, and had a chance to do one of my favorite things – washing dishes when I am a guest in someone else’s house.

7 comments:

  1. I love Armenia very much and I do not want the name of Armenia be tarnished hence I like to convey this message to you.
    Those bride-napping affairs, whatever they are, but I think it has something to do when a guy likes a gal and then he takes a ride with a horse to her house, grabs her and put her on the horse beside him and then take her to nearest church where a priest marry them.
    Now this is an internal domestic affair and PCVs should keep out of it, or else they might get hurt, harmed or even get killed. Like I said I do not want the name of Armenia be tarnished and it is better for PCVs to stick to their jobs: Language teaching, bussiness development, IT teachings and so on, but to play or take on the role of heroes; the role of local authorities; the roles of private detectives, and try to make the wrong right by interfering in domestic affairs -something they did not even sign for- is not a prudent thing to do and the consequences could be tragic sometimes. with love!

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  2. One of my intentions with this blog is to share some of the culture, and this is a part of the culture. Your reaction is interesting - did it not occur to you that a threat like this might be a more of a tarnish than anything I said?
    The PCV who is extending is doing so to help the UN with a study, not to interfere with any particular individuals. It therefore falls under community and business development. Based on your comment, I see more than ever how necessary and valuable the study might be.
    I also forwarded your comment to our Safety and Security Coordinator. If it disappears it may be because of a recommendation from Peace Corps.

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  3. I knew you would not keep silence and will clarify the matter regarding the MENTION of bride-napping in your post where you did not give any clarification or details and let the readers of your article to guess about the matter and make assumptions.

    This is what you wrote: "All is not paradise, though – the 19-year-old daughter in Chad’s original host family was bride-napped a few months ago by another family in the village. She hasn’t been allowed back to see her family, and she’s now pregnant. Another volunteer is extending his service specifically to work on bride-napping issues; it’s apparently an increasing practice here." Now linking to separate events (although dealing with same subject) in one paragraph without given further explanation is very confusing and one may assume the end of the world has come already.

    I do not see any harm if it is only a study of any sort or lectures given to students & adults that bride-napping is something wrong and it should not be practiced. What I am opposed to is that a PCV takes a horse of his own, then puts the napped-bride on his horse or car and bring her back to her parents against the wishes of her husband.

    When you ask "did it not occur to you that bride-napping might be a more of a tarnish on Armenia than anything," I disagree because bride-napping will not be headline or first page or prime news in USA, while if a PCV get hurt it will. Thanks for all that you wonderful people are doing for Armenia and her people.

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  4. I didn't say that last phrase that you put in quotes (even though you put it in quotes). I wanted to mention bride-napping only quickly because it is a practice here; I chose not to elaborate because I don't know much about it. After hearing about it, I did some internet searches; I imagine that any of my readers who want to know more might do the same. I didn't find anything in my search that I felt I wanted to link to. Yes, the PCV is doing a study, not taking a horse of his or her own. And I am very glad to be here doing my part for Armenia and its people. I appreciate its rich history, its beautiful scenery, its vibrant capital, and its wonderful people. Over and out!

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  5. I think there has been misunderstanding and the matter has now been settled since there is definitely no rescue mission for napped-brides organized or conducted directly by the volunteers in Armenia.

    For the sake of the study, here is my two pennies worth about bride-kidnapping or abduction.

    It all started way back in pre-historic times when the cave man felt lonely and went looking for a companion; as soon as he found her he got hold of her long hair and dragged her to his cave.

    Since then macho men, who can not take "NO" from women, have not stopped from abducting them against their will.

    In the early history of Rome there is the well-known episode of "The Rape of the Sabine Women" in which the first generation of Roman men acquired wives for themselves from the neighboring Sabine families by force. The English word "rape" is a conventional translation of Latin raptio, which in this context means "abduction" rather than its prevalent modern meaning of sexual violation.

    Up to the present time bride-napping is alive all over the world, specially in third world countries. I would be interested to know how prevalent it is in rural Armenia and making a study on the subject in a diligent way surely is welcomed. It would also be interesting to the Armenian officials in Yerevan who definitely are against this uncivilized phenomenon in rural Armenia.

    I do not think this phenomenon will disappear entirely from the world since there is going always to be men with macho mentality, and there is always to be some females in third world countries who spent their idle time, fantasizing that their awaited knight or stud will show up soon, napping them and carrying them to his castle.
    Keep the good work dear!

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  6. I DID NOT INTEND ANT THREAT TO ANYBODY!!!

    I was net browsing and word "threat" kept bouncing into my mind, I wondered what it was, then it occurred that it was from you. So I went to your previous comment which first I fast-read, when I read slowly I was very upset that you have taken me completely wrong when you stated to me:

    "did it not occur to you that a threat like this might be a more of a tarnish than anything I said?"

    What threat you are referring to, nobody is making any threat lady; how did the concept of threat occurred to you is beyond me because things like that are completely out of my nature and character. I was trying to warn that if PCVs get involved in rescue missions for napped brides they might be harmed by the husbands of the brides and by his relatives. And when something bad like that happens then the name of Armenia can be tarnished. Because you first said that a PCV is WORKING (that was you exact word you used) on bride-napping issues in Armenia by extending his stay and you did not elaborate what kind of work he was doing so naturally I assumed he was trying to rescue the napped-brides. When first I gave you the message by first comment, I was trying to be helpful, both in warning and keeping PCVs safe and in keeping Armenia's reputation not-tarnished because of potential violence from husbands of napped-brides which could have labeled Armenia as a violent country.

    I read your blog and other similar blogs because of my intention to volunteer in Armenia someday and information given in the blogs can be very help. Though I am not thinking in PC volunteering but rather to one of private organization.

    Again I repeat in amazement: how did the concept of threat from me occurred to you is beyond me lady!

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  7. Forgive me for overreacting and perceiving a threat - I don't get many comments from people I don't know. In the ensuing discussion, your love for the country comes through. If you are truly thinking about volunteering, I recommend you peruse http://www.armenianvolunteer.org/. They have opportunities open to anyone over 21, ranging from a month to a year in length. I have met some of the people from AVC and am very impressed!

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