Thursday, May 26, 2011

At the Two-Thirds Mark...

This week I have been working on a story about a bridge that MCA-Armenia built. It wasn’t in the original scope of work, but the existing bridge was falling apart and dangerous. The bridge spans the drainage system that MCA-Armenia was rehabilitating, and it connects nine villages to Yerevan. The mayor of one of them – coincidentally, the one where I planted the tree – requested the bridge, and the Environmental and Social Impact team agreed to build it. It does have a big social impact – without it, farmers would have a harder time taking their crops to market and students would have a harder time getting to school; they would have to go several miles out of the way, costing precious money and time.

We visited the construction foreman and the bridge itself. We talked to the mayors of two of the villages and then went out to meet some beneficiaries. It was a chance for me to experience authentic village Armenian hospitality – everywhere, cups of coffee and trays of sweets appeared, and we couldn’t leave without sitting and visiting for a while. It was fun to talk to little kids, too – I haven’t had much of a chance to do that! The story of the bridge is compelling but so is the context of the larger project. Without the rehabilitation of the drainage system, the beneficiaries had standing water not only in their backyard farms but also in the ground floors of their homes – we could see the water line on the walls and I would say it was several feet high. We visited a site where the drainage system is still in the works, and the “before” is a little ditch with standing water that clearly overflows frequently, whereas the latter is a substantial ditch, with a levee-like wall, through which water flows briskly. And it was nice to see “my” tree, and to once again pass many storks’ nests. I’ve been writing the story this week and also reading background info for the next environment article and working on revising fact sheets now that I have more information to include. And I have another new assignment, writing an article about the credit component of the program.

I’m also sharing my office these two weeks, with another MCC person from DC. She’s had some free time at night, so we’ve gone out to dinners, and I introduced her to the A-14s and to other PCVs and PCRVs. She hadn’t had authentic Armenian food, so one night we went to the place with live music. Here is a duduk and a kanun, the instruments featured in the concertos last week. I am no longer sharing my home space, on the other hand – Zina decided that Will’s schedule (out late, sleeping late) and mine (in early, up early) were too much work for her, and she told him to find other accommodations. I also wanted to mention someone who shared our hike – an Israeli backpacker who is solo traveling the Silk Road; he showed up at the fortress with no real way down, so the group leader invited him to join us on the hike and the bus ride back to Yerevan. I think I am somewhat adventurous, until I meet someone who really is! Also – MCA-Armenia decided that the people who wanted English lessons were too across-the-board in their needs; I may have conversations one-on-one with the people most motivated to learn, but I won’t do lessons. I’m glad they decided that and told me, since that’s what Jeanne and I were thinking too, and I wasn’t sure how I was going to tell them!

A note on the sweets – in every home, there seems to be a never-ending supply of Grand Candy. Grand Candy, locally made, is amazing (but won’t allow indoor photography in its stores…). The chocolate ranges from okay to great (priced accordingly), and they have so many varieties of sweets – individually wrapped, bars, wafers, cookies, coffee, ice cream, cakes – it’s impressive. It might be the most successful manufacturer in Armenia! And Grand Candy joins lavash on the not-yet-really-being-thought-about list of things I will miss.

Though it is almost time to think about it – on Tuesday we had our PCRV “COS conference,” a meeting to review the (pile of) paperwork we have to fill out before leaving here. We didn’t have one of these in the Philippines: it was nice of staff to take the time for us, and a rare occasion for all five PCRVs to spend some time together. Lots to do (work-wise – and now, paperwork-wise) and see (weekend-wise) before I leave!

I may have ended my formal tutoring, too – my tutor is going to be an LCF (Language and Culture Facilitator) for the A-19s, who, amazingly enough, arrive in the country at the end of next week. So this week, training-of-trainers started for her. I may go through the language book and study on my own during the tutoring time slots - or maybe I will call it a day. I’ve gotten a lot out of it but I don’t really study or practice. I use Armenian sometimes, and I do like to read, but tutoring was getting more challenging. Once we finished the alphabet, she started to write everything in Armenian rather than in transliterated English. Armenian is hard for me to read upside down, and I don’t read it as fast as she writes it, so the last few tutoring sessions were overwhelming. Working at MCA-Armenia tires me out too – maybe instead of tutoring I can use the time to rest!

I should also mention that this weekend I am missing Republic Day, the anniversary of the date in 1918 when Armenia first became an independent republic – though it didn’t last very long. They’ve been setting up some big concert stages for celebrations. But it’s okay – I will hear music of my own culture, the Princeton University Marching Band, and maybe “Take Me Out to the Ballgame”! Last item for today – Yerevan is abloom with roses everywhere! Even the tiniest patches of dirt seem to have some, and they line some of the sculptures and the main walk across the Opera Square. Beautiful!

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